How to travel from Malang to Banyuwangi​ by train

Malang is the furthest east many travellers venture in Java, but the railway line continues all the way to the eastern edge of the island at Banyuwangi, the entry point to Mount Ijen and only a short ferry ride away from Bali.

The six and a half hour journey rises and falls through the East Javan countryside, passing alongside and in between the volcanoes of Mount Bromo and Mount Argopuro. When the train reaches Banyuwangi, tourists either spend some time in the region to witness the blue flames at Mount Ijen, or jump straight across to Bali, whose mountains are clearly visible just across the water.

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Route map and details

Due to Mount Bromo’s imposing presence in this part of East Java, trains heading east from Malang must first travel north to the town of Bangil before turning east towards Banyuwangi. After Probolinggo, the route passes in between Mount Bromo and Mount Argopuro, into fertile agricultural valleys and alongside rice fields.

It’s an up and down route, beginning high up in Malang, down to sea level at Probolinggo, back up to 500m at Jember, and then finally back to sea level at Banyuwangi. The train actually terminates fifteen minutes beyond Banyuwangi’s Kota station at Ketapang, the jumping off point for ferries to Bali.

Timetables

Click here to check all Indonesia train times

There are two trains per day between Malang and Banyuwangi Kota station, which is the closest station to the city centre and Mount Ijen. Note that both of these trains continue for an additional fifteen minutes to Ketapang (the closest station for onward ferry connections to Bali).

How to buy tickets

Click here to book train tickets from Malang to Banyuwangi.

The easiest way to buy train tickets in Indonesia is online rather than going to the station. You do pay a very small commission but the ease and convenience makes it worthwhile.

12Go is the best website to use and accepts international credit cards. It's also a good place to check timetables and prices.

After booking online you'll receive a confirmation email with a QR code and booking number. You'll need to exchange this for an orange boarding pass via one of the self-service machines at the station before travel. This can be done up to seven days in advance at any station in the country (it doesn't need to be the one you're departing from). You may also need to show your passport or ID at the boarding gate, but this isn't usually enforced.

How much does it cost?

Executive and Economy class are available on the train from Malang to Banyuwangi. The Ijen Ekspres (named after the hugely popular tourist attraction of Mount Ijen) is the more premium train, so ticket prices are higher than on the Economy-only Tawangalun train:

• Economy: IDR60,000 to IDR175,000 (US$3 – US$10)
• Executive: IDR265,000 (US$15)

What to expect on board

The two most popular classes for travelling between Malang and Banyuwangi are Executive and Economy class, both of which provide good value and comfort. Note that the later train (Tawangalun) is Economy class only. During the peak tourist seasons (particularly July and August), this route is heavily used by overseas travellers and you’re far more likely to find yourself in a carriage full of Europeans than Indonesians, especially in on the Ijen Ekspres Executive carriages.

Executive class generally sells out before Economy because it has more comfortable seats and considerably more legroom. For longer journeys like this one, which take over six hours, that extra comfort makes a difference, and you’ll arrive in Banyuwangi feeling much more relaxed. It’s also a bonus that all seats in Executive are forward-facing, unlike Economy where half the seats face backwards, although this will change at Bangil when the train reverses. Don’t worry though if Economy is the only option available when you book your tickets, as it’s still a comfortable and safe ride, certainly when compared to many other train journeys in Southeast Asia. It simply lacks some of the touches and features you’ll find in Executive.

Executive class carriages are cleverly designed with rotatable seats, meaning you’ll be facing forwards (or you can turn one pair around to create a group of four if you’re travelling with friends or family). Attendants will spin them around for you before departing Bangil station. There’s also a generous amount of legroom, more than enough for even the tallest traveller to sit back and relax, and you won’t feel guilty about reclining your seat. Add in the large windows, footrests and padded seats, and there’s little to stop you from having a chilled-out journey to Banyuwangi.

Economy class is still a good product and many travellers opt for this option to save some money, as it can be significantly cheaper than Executive, particularly if you’re travelling as a group. The two main areas where it falls short compared to Executive are legroom and the upkeep of the carriages. Firstly, a few extra rows of seats have been squeezed into the carriage, reducing legroom to just a few inches. If you’re over 6ft tall, you may need to squeeze in and prepare for a cramped ride, particularly if the person in front of you reclines their seat. Secondly, the carriages themselves are slightly less well looked after than the Executive ones, meaning you miss out on some of the comfort and premium feel found elsewhere on the train.

Finally, the seats are fixed in place and can’t be rotated, so half the carriage faces the direction of travel while half are travelling backwards. Depending on how badly you suffer from motion sickness, this could be an issue.

If you have a choice of seats, bear in mind that rows 10 and 11 are in the centre of the carriage where the rows change direction, meaning these pairs of seats face each other. They’re a popular choice if you’re travelling as a group and want to chat, but perhaps less so if the people opposite you are strangers. Legroom is almost non-existent and you’ll spend six hours looking directly at each other.

Both Economy and Executive carriages are fully air-conditioned and have power points, seat pockets, armrests and tray tables. Typically, the Ijen Ekspres trains are made up of three Executive carriages and three (Premium) Economy. There’s also a catering car, more on that below. Tawangalun trains are Economy only and of a lower standard (hence the correspondingly lower price).

Luggage storage is the same in both classes, but life will be considerably easier if you’re travelling with backpacks or smaller, soft suitcases. Many tourists board the train with huge rigid suitcases that won’t fit into the overhead racks, so there’s sometimes a battle to squeeze these cases into the luggage racks at the end of the carriage. It delays boarding and blocks the aisles, so do try and keep your luggage size down if at all possible. Technically, each passenger is allowed 20kg, and this is often enforced if you’re obviously exceeding the limit.

Toilets are found at the end of each carriage, with either Western-style or ‘squat-and-drop’ toilets, depending on the train and class you’re travelling in. Economy tends to have both types, while Executive is usually Western-style only, with separate male and female toilets. If they see you patiently waiting for your gender’s toilet while the other one is free, train guards will often suggest that you use the other toilet rather than queueing. Toilets in both classes are cleaned regularly and generally kept in decent condition.

Catering options

Onboard catering is available either at your seat or by visiting the restaurant car, both of which offer identical food and drinks: hot meals (noodles, rice, etc), snacks, instant noodles, coffee and soft drinks. Although the catering trolley is convenient, most passengers prefer walking to the restaurant car and eating at a proper table and chair.

Payment is either by cash or e-wallets (QRIS). When the train is busy, it’s common for the stock levels to run low, especially the hot meals and soft drinks. In the last hour or so of the trip, you might only find water and crisps still available.

Journey description

The railway line from Malang to Banyuwangi takes a weird and wonderful route through East Java, particularly in the first half of the journey when it winds its way around Mount Bromo. Beginning at almost 500m above sea level, the line drops steeply for the first 50km of the route, reaching sea level by the time it reaches the junction at Bangil, where the line splits towards either Surabaya or Banyuwangi.

At Bangil station, the train reverses and changes direction for the rest of the journey. If you’re in Executive class, attendants will walk through the carriage and rotate the seats for you. Economy carriages don’t have this option, so passengers here will spend the rest of the trip to Banyuwangi facing a new direction.

Shortly after Bangil, train calls at Probolinggo station, one of the major stops in East Java and a popular access point for Mount Bromo and the surrounding region. From there, the train turns south, passing through the valley between Mount Bromo and Mount Argopuro. The final 100km to Banyuwangi see the train climb and descend fairly rapidly, reaching 500m above sea level near Jember and then dropping back to sea level on the approach to Banyuwangi.

There are two major railway stations in Banyuwangi, the first is Banyuwangi Kota, which is the one to use if you’re visiting Mount Ijen. Alternatively, many tourists are only in town to cross over the water to Bali, and they should use Ketapang station, which is the end of the line (it was originally known as Banyuwangi Baru and it’s sometimes still referred to as that).